Beer Nut: Kölsch is perfect style for summer

Now that we’re into June and the official start of summer is right around the corner, I’d thought I’d pay tribute to one of the best summer beer styles around: Kölsch.

Technically, this beer should be from the Cologne, Germany, area to use the name, but that's a mere formality that U.S. brewers blithely ignore. The beer was created in that area as a way of challenging popular German lagers, which take longer to make.

But the funny thing about that is that although Kōlsch is technically an ale (top fermenting), it's really a hybrid, as the style is conditioned at colder temperatures like lagers are. This makes Kolsch a "lagered ale."

But enough with the technicalities. Today's column is a paean to the style.

For some reason, I don't seem to often encounter the style here in the U.S. Maybe that is just the luck of the draw of where I live, but I’m guessing that for whatever reason, the style has never really caught on here to any great degree. This puzzles me because as I said above, the style is so well matched to the summer months. It is light in both color and body and features a somewhat dry, crisp finish.

Fortunately, there are two Massachusetts breweries I love which both make a version of the style: Brick & Feather in Montague and Exhibit "A" Brewing in Framingham. Both breweries do a great job with the style, in my humble opinion.

We’ll start with Exhibit "A" Brewing's version, named Goody Two Shoes. At a sessionable ABV of just 4.5%, this beer already gets high points as a summer refresher. It pours a crystal clear golden hue, topped with a gorgeous white crown. The nose reveals some lemon notes and grassy aspects. The flavor follows suit, with a bit more hop character that I normally would expect, but nothing overwhelming or off-putting.

The bready malt structure morphs into the classic cracker taste that is associated with the style. The finish is clean and dry, and leaves you wanting another, which, again, at 4.5% ABV, should not be a problem.

Brick & Feather's journey into the style, named Montague Gothic, is no less impressive. It's slightly more alcoholic, coming in at 5.2% ABV, but that certainly is well within the range of the style.

The aroma has some attractive grainy and herbal aspects, which are also reflected in the taste. Despite its slightly higher ABV percentage, I felt it was a bit lighter in body that Goody Two Shoes. The cracker aspect is front and center here, and the hops add a touch of citrus, more lemony than orange.

As fitting the style, it finishes dry and crisp, with maybe a bit of malt lingering on the palate.

Both of these beers are worth seeking out, and both are good starting points if you’re not familiar with the style.

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